
When it comes to turning your attic into living space, here are a few building code basics that you will need to know.
Generally, code requires a full size staircase with a minimum of 6 foot 8 inch clearance above it. There must be two ways out like a window or a second staircase in case of fire.
The ceiling height on any living space must be at least 7 feet in each direction. Some of the low clearance area can be kept as storage area.
Attic floors usually need to be reinforced with joists and a subfloor. Older homes, built before the 1950’s, may need some foundation work as well, according to architect Stewart Davis.
Heat and moisture rise, which often times means having to add air conditioning, and ceiling fans. If you install windows, this will help with the ventilation as well. Spray foam insulation under the roof and in the walls will help with heating and cooling costs.
Plan for wiring and plumbing needs in advance of beginning work. These can present huge challenges in attics. Be sure that the flooring does not rest on any wires. Remember that if you are planning a bathroom, you can save money by placing it in close proximity to another existing supply and drain line.

There should be ventilation above the insulation in the attic on residential buildings. It is important in the winter to keep heat inside the living space and allowing moisture to escape. While in the summer it is needed to move air which reduces heat build up. Proper attic ventilation will save energy, cost less to operate and have less negative impact on the environment.
Roof temperatures can reach more than 140 degrees on summer days. Natural ventilation can take away the heat that penetrates the attic space. The hot air is pushed outside and replaced with cool air with an eave to ridge ventilation. This creates a continuous circulation flow naturally with external airflow across the room.
Vents should have a screen to keep pests and bugs out as well as louvers to keep out the snow and rain. Below are some of the vents that are available to install:
Eave vents are screened or louvered vents. They are used when there is not an enclosed soffit or roof overhang.
Soffit vents are usually on the underside of the eave and run the length of the roof.
Gable end vents are at the peak of the gable on opposite sides of the roof and come in a variety of designs. These affect side to side circulation.
Ridge Vents run the entire length of the roof are are concealed portion of the roofing materials.
Roof vents come in several shapes and sizes. They can be installed both high and low and provide top and bottom ventilation.
Turbines, also known as rotary vents, are louvered spinning balls and are attached to a solid base. Warm air rises which spins the turbine, drawing more air out of the attic.