Insulating Interior Walls

Right now, saving energy and money are at the top of most people’s list.  Even those who haven’t insulated before will find that this task is fairly simple.  With that said, the one thing you might find a little overwhelming if you’ve never done it before and aren’t a regular at your local harware or lumber store – is the ever increasing types of insulation there are out on the market.

Put simply, when you choose to insulate an interior room, these are your likely options:

Traditional fiberglass insulation

Spray foam insulation

Recycled paper insulation (with fire retardant)

Foam Board

and more…

The all have their advantages and disadvantages, some last longer than other, some will last almost the life of the home.

With traditional fiberglass insulation, you have the option of rolled or batts.  Then there is the R Value.  Which means, how resistant to heat flow is the insulation.  While in North America, the typical R Value of insulation installed in a home is R19 – this number should also be dictated by where you live on the continent.  Perhaps, if you live in Maine, you might want a little more insulation, than someone living in Florida.  R Value dictates holding heat in, just as much as holding heat out.

Spray foam insulation, is usually used for hard to reach or uneven surfaces, a place that can’t simply be rolled, or that you’d have to destroy the roll or batt in order to fill it.

Recycled paper insulation is really good and helpful for crawl spaces, attic spaces, but now they have a tacky substance that also helps it adhere and cling to walls, drying almost solid, then covered over by sheet rock or paneling.  One might be concerned that the insulation is also made out of paper, which is flammable.  to easy your mind, ensure, and the answer should be yes – that the paper has  been treated with fire retardant.

Foam board usually applies to the exterior of the house, but people also like to use it for concrete walls as well.  Depending on your region, check to see what the thickness (R Value) is that people are using in your area.  This also applies to the fiberglass rolls and batts.

Keep in mind, if your room has two walls that are interior and two walls that line the exterior of the house, you’ll want a higher R Value insulation along the two outside walls.  A good give away for this is, the interior walls will be built with 2×4’s while the exterior should be built using 2×6’s, to allow for thicker insulation.  You may find that older homes also used 2×4’s for the exterior, but that was due mainly to building practices at the time the home was built.

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Modern Bed for a Modern Bedroom

The Bed - the centerpiece to your room and one of the most important pieces of furniture as far as comfort, style, and affordability.

When it comes to this piece, your options are almost limitless, confusing even.

You have to consider price, style, size, modern, antique, framework, the manufacturer, mattresses, and dimensions.

The most popular size among couples is the King, offering plenty of room for both.

Sometimes, you find better bargains when you combine your bed with a bedroom set.  Though, keep in mind, more often than not, the mattresses for your bed are sold completely separate, and in recent years, the number of manufacturers for mattresses has been shrinking, lowering competition and raising prices.

It’s not uncommon to spend $1000.00 on a bed frame and another $1000.00 on the mattresses.

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Home Improvement Tax Credits

Most people are aware that there are some Federal and possibly State Tax Credits that you can use for your home.  Problem is, everyone hears about them, but you usually aren’t sure how it works.

Before filling your taxes, the first thing you want to do, in order to claim your home improvement tax credit is: Save Your Receipts.

On February 17, the President signed into law the American Recovery and Reinvestment Tax Act of 2009. This bill extends and modifies the tax credits for windows, doors, and skylights established in the Energy Policy Act of 2005.

The following guidance is not intended as legal advice, and you should consult a tax professional with specific questions.

*** Qualifying products purchased between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2010 are eligible for a tax credit equal to 30 percent of the product cost.***


Installation is not included; be sure to obtain an itemized invoice from your retailer or installer. The maximum amount of homeowner credit for all improvements combined (including roofing, insulation, HVAC, and water heaters) is $1,500 during 2009 and 2010.

Products Purchased before June 1, 2009

Criteria: Windows, doors, and skylights purchased before June 1, 2009 must meet or exceed the prescriptive criteria established by the 2001 Supplement of the 2000 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) or the 2004 Supplement of the 2003 IECC for the climate zone in which the product is installed.

Documentation: For windows and skylights, homeowners may use either ENERGY STAR labels or manufacturer certification statements to document eligibility for the tax credit.

Doors are required to have a manufacturer certification statement.

Products Purchased on or after June 1, 2009

Criteria: Windows, doors, and skylights purchased on or after June 1, 2009 must have U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) ratings of 0.30 or less.  Look for the NFRC label, your item must have this label. NFRC is the only federally recognized organization for determining the energy performance of windows, doors and skylights.

Documentation: Homeowners must obtain a manufacturer certification statement to document window, door, or skylight eligibility for the tax credit.

If the retailer or installer cannot provide this document, it may be available on the manufacturer’s Web site.

You can visit ENERGY STAR for a more complete breakdown on what does/does not qualify, and to learn what the limits are.

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Modern – Water Saving Toilets

Over the years as people update, upgrade their homes, they are becoming more cautious of saving energy and water. Modern toilets are finally catching up. It’s estimated that 30% of the water use in a household is from flushing the toilet.

You might have one in your home or have seen them at a friends or business – the tanks on today’s toilets are much smaller or are gone entirely.

Below is a list of rated toilets that have caught our eye – and other things.

Gerber UltraFlush 21-312

pros

  • Removes the most solid waste in a single flush
  • Quiet but powerful
  • Large water surface
cons

  • Requires home water pressure of at least 25 psi
This unit costs about $340.00
___________________________________________________________________

TOTO Eco UltraMax MS853113E

pros

  • Meets WaterSense certification
  • One-piece design is easy to clean
  • Simple technology
  • Softclose seat eliminates clanking
cons

  • More expensive than two-piece toilets
  • Average solid-waste removal
The unit costs about $450.00
___________________________________________________________________

Caroma Caravelle 305

pros

  • Dual-flush system saves on water bills
  • Easy-to-use push buttons
  • Powerful, efficient
cons

  • Expensive
  • Low water level
This unit costs about $400.00
___________________________________________________________________

American Standard  Mainstream FloWise WaterSense™ High-Performance Round Complete Toilet

Rating: 4.4 out of 5 stars
I can personally speak to this toilet.  I replaced two of them in my home with this one and true to the advertising, after two years, these toilets have saved us money, saved water, and flushed everything a 3 years old can throw in it.  As a bonus, the price was perfect.

This unit costs about $129.00 at LOWES!

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