Summer is right around the corner…some of you may be venturing out into your garage and looking at all the things that were just thrown in there over the winter. We put together some photos of different garages to help give you ideas, if you’re looking to start getting it organized.

The photo above shows a beautiful garage that has had a corner converted to make room for all their gardening tools. The organizer allows for a quick and easy grab of any tool you might need.

For the mechanic in your life, this craftsman organizer fits the bill perfectly. It provides organization for all your tools and a great work bench to help get the job done.

If you have a large family or plan several trips a year, you can do what these people did. They organized their carriers, added cabinets, and shelves to hold all the things they plan to take or want to keep accessible before and after their trips.

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There’s almost an unlimited number of living room designs and ideas.

Today we’ll look at a few of them, with some photos to show differences.

1.   The Traditional Living Room:

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The Bed - the centerpiece to your room and one of the most important pieces of furniture as far as comfort, style, and affordability.

When it comes to this piece, your options are almost limitless, confusing even.

You have to consider price, style, size, modern, antique, framework, the manufacturer, mattresses, and dimensions.

The most popular size among couples is the King, offering plenty of room for both.

Sometimes, you find better bargains when you combine your bed with a bedroom set.  Though, keep in mind, more often than not, the mattresses for your bed are sold completely separate, and in recent years, the number of manufacturers for mattresses has been shrinking, lowering competition and raising prices.

It’s not uncommon to spend $1000.00 on a bed frame and another $1000.00 on the mattresses.

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Do it Yourself – Solar Panels

An instructional guide to Energy Independence and Self Reliance

Table of Contents:

History of Energy Timeline

Significant Events in the History of Energy Uses

Introduction

United States Energy Consumption by Source

Earth’s Energy Budget

Solar Panel Parts, Characteristics, and Photos

Different Cells on the Market

Wiring Definitions and Examples

Building your Solar Panels

Batteries

Recommended Sites

Costs

* Please note that the material covered in this guide assumes that the people reading it are seeking to build their own solar panels, for personal use, and as a stand-alone. Nothing in this guide will assist you in connecting to a commercial or residential power grid. Such action should not be attempted without the assistance of a licensed electrician and permission from your local power/utility company.

WARNING: We assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of these instructions. Follow these instructions at your own risk. These instructions have not been evaluated by an Engineer. These instructions are intended to be “guidelines” and may be incomplete. Solar energy can be dangerous. Use caution.

History of Energy Timeline:

Wood (Biomass)
	Pre-1885	Wood was the primary source for cooking, warmth, light, trains and steamboats. Cutting wood was time consuming, hard work.
Electricity
	1700’s	After eons of superstitious imaginations about electricity, Ben Franklin figured out that static electricity and lightening were the same. His correct understanding of the nature of electricity paved the way for the future.
	1830-1839	Michael Faraday built an induction dynamo based on principles of electromagnetism, induction, generation and transmission.
	1860’s	Mathematical theory of electromagnetic fields was published. Maxwell created a new era of physics when he unified magnetism, electricity and light. One of the most significant events, possibly the very most significant event, of the 19th century was Maxwell’s discovery of the four laws of electrodynamics (“Maxwell’s Equations”). This led to electric power, radios, and television.
Coal
	1763-1774	Pumping water from coal mines was a most difficult and expensive problem. The steam engine developed by James Watt during these years provided the solution. Watt’s steam engine remained basically unchanged for the next century and its uses expanded to change the whole nature of industry and transportation.
	1885-1950	Coal was the most important fuel. One half ton of coal produced as much energy as 2 tons of wood and at half the cost. But it was hard to stay clean in houses heated with coal.
	Late 1860’s	The steel industry gave coal a big boost.
	1982	Coal accounted for more than half of the supply of electricity but little was used in homes. In terms of national electricity generation, hydropower, natural gas, and nuclear energy contributed between 10 and 15 percent each.
Oil
	By 1870	Oil had become the country’s second biggest export after the industry was started by Edwin Drake.
	1890	Mass production of automobiles began, creating demand for gasoline. Prior to this, kerosene used for lighting had been the main oil product.
	1951-present	Oil has given us most of our energy. Automobiles increased the demand for oil.
	1960	The Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC) was formed by Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, and Venezuela. The group has since grown to include 11 member countries.
	1970	U.S. production of petroleum (crude oil and natural gas plant liquids) reached its highest level at 11.7 million barrels per day. Production in the Lower-48 States has been generally declining since 1970. Some of this decline has been offset by increased Alaskan production after 1978.
	1993 forward	For the first time the U.S. imported more oil and refined products from other countries than it produced. More and more imports have been needed because of growing petroleum demand and declining U.S. production
Nuclear
	1906	Special theory of relativity written. Albert Einstein created a new era of physics when he unified mass, energy, magnetism, electricity, and light. One of the most significant events, if not the very most significant event, of the 20th century was Einstein’s writing the formula of E=mc2: energy = mass times the square of the speed of light. This led to nuclear medicine – and a much longer life span, astrophysics, and commercial nuclear electric power
	1942	Scientists produced nuclear energy in a sustained nuclear reaction.
	1957	The first commercial nuclear power plant began operating.
	1995	Nuclear power contributed about 20 percent of the nation’s electricity.

Significant Events in the History of Energy Uses:

Transportation
	1781	The stagecoach was the worldwide standard for passenger travel.
	1800	Transportation as we know today was almost non-existent. Railroads covered far less territory. Trains were much smaller. Horse-drawn carts moved food and all other items on land, and barges moved them on rivers.
	1881	The steam-powered railway train had become the worldwide standard for passenger travel.
	1908	Henry Ford produced the Model T car (Note that the Model T had been designed to use ethanol, gasoline, or any combination of the two fuels).
	1920	The Ford Motor Company manufactured the Model T in large numbers.
	1949-2000	In transportation, use of energy is overwhelmingly petroleum. Energy for this use more than tripled from 1949 to 2000, with motor gasoline accounting for about two-thirds of it. Distillate fuel oil and jet fuel are other important petroleum products used in transportation.
	1950-present	The National Highway Defense System opened interstate highways for fast trucks.
Energy Uses Have Changed
	1800	The residential sector consumed most of America’s energy.
	1850-1980	The average energy that each person used increased steadily.
	1979-1982	Energy consumption decreased ten percent. The industrial sector cut its consumption by 20 percent. The residential and commercial sectors energy consumption stayed about the same.
	1950	Distillate fuel oil heated about 22 percent of U.S. households. Over a third of all U.S. housing units were warmed by coal. Natural gas was used to warm about 25 percent of U.S. households. Electricity was used to warm only 0.6 percent of U.S. households.
	1978	Microwave ovens were located in 8 percent of U.S. households.
	1990	16 percent of households owned one or more personal computers.
	1997	Only about 11 percent of all U.S. housing units were warmed by distillate fuel oil. Only 0.2 percent of all U.S. housing units were warmed by coal. More than 50 percent of all U.S. households used natural gas for warmth. Electricity was used as the main heating fuel in 29 percent of U.S. households. 35 percent of U.S. households had personal computers. 83 percent of U.S. households had microwaves. 99 percent of U.S. households had a color television. 47 percent of U.S. households had central air conditioning. 85 percent of of U.S. households had one refrigerator 15 percent of U.S. households had two or more refrigerators.

Credit: www.DOE.gov

Earth’s Energy Budget:

The Earth’s energy budget is that of all gains of incoming energy and all losses of outgoing energy. The planet is in equilibrium, so the sum of the gains is approximately equal to the sum of the losses.

Introduction:

If you recently purchased this quick guide to Solar Panel Power, you are probably among millions of people world wide concerned about the ever-growing demand for energy. With the population growth having surpassed the amount of people that have ever lived on the planet total, concerns about state and federal governments and their abilities, and the over all cost of what everyone knows are limited resources; you have purchased this reading material in an attempt to do something to secure your energy needs.

As you can see in the chart below, over 90% of the energy consumed in the United States alone is nonrenewable. What this means in simple English is that it will eventually – RUN OUT. The obvious question to ask is – WHEN?

There are thousands of estimates floating around out there; the bottom line is no one really knows when. We can only estimate what we’ve found, where other locations may be, and what we are currently and will use in the future.

For people like you and me, if you follow this guide and do some of your own research, the world could run out of oil tomorrow with little impact on our lives.

Though this is a little bit of an understatement, since everything we touch has some aspect of oil attached to it. The food you buy, the car you drive, the washing machine, your stove. All of these things need oil.

Even if you’re the type of person who plants their own garden and hunts for your own food. You still need oil. To get the seeds and soil, you probably had to drive to the store or market. To go hunting, you probably have to drive there as well.

This do it yourself guide book is not going to fix the worlds current or future problems with limited supplies, but it could be enough to get you started on the right track towards self sufficiency and reliance.

With that said, wind and solar are really the only two options an individual person or family have at this time. Please note that there or other alternatives in the works such as converting water into hydrogen and oxygen, and the creation of magnetic motors for homes and vehicles.

Solar Panel Parts, Characteristics, and Photos:

Solar cells (aka. Solar panels & PV panels) – are usually made from silicon, the same material used for transistors and integrated circuits. The silicon is treated or “doped” so that when light strikes it electrons are released, so generating an electric current. There are three basic types of solar cell. Monocrystalline cells are cut from a silicon ingot grown from a single large crystal of silicon whilst polycrystalline cells are cut from an ingot made up of many smaller crystals. The third type is the amorphous or thin-film solar cell.

Type of Solar Cells:

Amorphous – solar cell that is deposited on a substrate. This material ranges from glass, plastic or metal. These are the cheapest and least efficient cells on the market, though they are very durable. These types of cells are the ones usually found in calculators and garden lamps.

• Monocrystalline – these are a hexagon shaped cell and are the most expensive and the most efficient.

• Poly/ Mono Crystalline – these are very fragile cells. They are the most popular and require that they be tabbed together. Most people prefer to buy them in bulk. They are wired in series through the use of tabs. Since these are the most common choice by users, we will, for the purposes of this guidebook assume that you too will be using this type of cell.

Electrical:

• Series, Parallel, and Series/Parallel – the connecting of solar cells to one another through the use of tabs and wiring.

• Tabs- is a thin; strip of metal, usually made of tin, which is used to connect solar cells together through the use of soldering. Not all solar cells come with tabs already installed. It is recommended that when purchasing cells, you find them with the tabs already connected; this will save you a lot of time and work.

(Bottom) photo of tabbing wire, already installed. The tabbing wire runs the length of the front of the cell, then connects to the soldiering points on the next cell in your series.

Note: if you purchase cells without tabbing wire already installed, you will need to purchase your own. Also, when in stalling the wire, know that the tabbing wire runs down the front of the cell, on either side, and then connects to the soldiering points on the reverse (back) side of the cell.

Note: there are some cells on the market that are coated in wax. You will need to remove the wax prior to wiring the cells together. This can be done by slowly bring water to a NEAR boil on a stove. You will want to have the cells dipped in the water when it is still room temperature and increase the heat of the water while the cells are submerged. Once the water is near boiling, the cells should begin to separate. You can then pull them out one at a time and wipe the wax away. Be careful not to crack or break the cell. Ensure that you remove all residual wax as well.

The easier way to avoid this is to ask the supplier if the cells are waxed before you order them.

• Soldier Points – located on the back there are between one and three point where the cells will require soldiering. The soldiering of these points will create the series.

• Charge Controller (Charge Regulator) – monitors the battery’s state-of-charge to insure that when the battery needs charge-current it gets it, and also insures the battery isn’t over-charged.

Note: Connecting a solar panel to a battery without a regulator seriously risks damaging the battery and potentially causing a safety concern.

Note: The most advanced charge controllers utilize a charging principal referred to as Pulse-Width-Modulation (PWM) – which insures the most efficient battery charging and extends the life of the battery. Even more advanced controllers also include Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) which maximizes the amount of current going into the battery from the solar array by lowering the panel’s output voltage, which increases the charging amps to the battery – because if a panel can produce 60 watts with 17.2 volts and 3.5 amps, then if the voltage is lowered to say 14 volts then the amperage increases to 4.28 (14v X 4.28 amps = 60 watts) resulting in a 19% increase in charging amps for this example.

Many charge controllers also offer Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD) and Battery Temperature Compensation (BTC) as an optional feature. The LVD feature permits connecting loads to the LVD terminals, which are then voltage sensitive. If the battery voltage drops too far the loads are disconnected – preventing potential damage to both the battery and the loads. BTC adjusts the charge rate based on the temperature of the battery since batteries are sensitive to temperature variations above and below about 75 F degrees.

(Credit: solar4power.com)

• Inverter – this device changes direct current (DC) into alternating current (AC).

• Blocking Diode – this prevents the reverse flow of electricity when the sun is not shining. Without this diode, the electricity stored in your battery pack will drain back into the panels.

• Battery Pack – this is where you will store the electricity generated by your panels. Only use Deep Cycle batteries.

Note: Deep cycle batteries are your best option for storing and using the power you generate. These types of batteries are designed to be charged and to release the electricity over longer periods of time.

A good example of a deep cycle battery would be one that is used in a golf cart.

Car batteries are not recommended. These types of batteries are designed for quick bursts of electricity only.

Below is a quote from www.windsun.com:

Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates – not sponge. This gives less surface area, thus less “instant” power like starting batteries need.

Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The golf car battery is quite popular for small systems and RV’s. The problem is that “golf car” refers to a size of battery (commonly called GC-2, or T-105), not the type or construction – so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably – ranging from the cheap off brand with thin plates up the true deep cycle brands, such as Crown, Deka, Trojan, etc. In general, you get what you pay for.

Shadow Box – the box that will hold your solar cells.

Different Cells on the Market:

There are a multitude of cell shapes and sizes on the market.

They range from: 1” x 3” / 3” x 3” / 3” x 6” and more.

Important things to know are that solar cells of the same type, regardless of their size will create the same voltage. Usually .5 volts. This means that the same number of cells will be needed to charge a set voltage amount for batteries regardless of the cell size.

It is strongly recommended that you DO NOT mix different size cells.

Solar cells may create the same amount of voltage, but larger cells will create more Amps. By mixing cells in your series, the power, which is measured as Voltage x Amps will be limited to the smallest cell (lowest Amps) in the group. This will reduce the efficiency of your cells.

Remember Voltage (V) x Amps (A) = Power (W) [Watts]

Example: V x A = W

17.1 volts times 3.5 amps equals 60 watts

Note: This electrical charge is consolidated in the PV panel and directed to the output terminals to produce low voltage (Direct Current) – usually 6 to 24 volts. The most common output is intended for nominal 12 volts, with an effective output usually up to 17 volts. A 12-volt nominal output is the reference voltage, but the operating voltage can be 17-volts or higher much like your car alternator charges your 12-volt battery at well over 12-volts. So there’s a difference between the reference voltage and the actual operating voltage.

Wiring Definitions and Examples:

Note: It is recommended that you seek the assistance of a licensed electrician before proceeding to wire your solar cells together.

There are three ways that you can wire your solar cells together:

Series – this is the connection of the positive end to the negative end of the cell. i.e. soldiering the front tabs to the soldier points on the back of the next cell.

Note: When wiring cells/batteries in series the voltages of each cell is additive. Meaning, each cell in the above example had the potential of producing 12 volts, then 12 + 12 + 12 + 12 = 48 volts. If these were cell then the total voltage of the series would be 48 volts.

Note: Another important rule about series circuits is that the amperage in a series circuit stays the same. If these were solar cells and each cell had a rating of 12 Volts @ 5 Amps then the total value of this series circuit would be 48 Volts @ 5 Amps.

Parallel – this is the connection of the positive end to the positive end of the cell and the same with the negatives. i.e. soldiering the front tabs to the front tabs on the front of the next cell and running wire down all of the soldiering points (negative) on the back of the cells.

Note: When wiring cells/batteries in parallel the voltage and amperage is the opposite of a series circuit. Instead the voltage in a parallel circuit stays the same and the amperage is additive. If each cell in the above example had the potential of producing 5 Amps then 5 + 5  = 10 Amps, the voltage would stay the same.

Series/Parallel – this is the combination of two or more series circuits that have been connected together.

Note: In the above example two separate pairs of cells have been wired in series and each of these series pairs have been wired together in parallel.

If you want to increase the charging capacity of your solar array you need to wire the solar cell in this way as to keep the solar array at X volts, then, series/parallel is the way to do it.

Remember in parallel circuits the amperage is additive so you increase your charging Amp capacity.

Note: Start by wiring the batteries in individual sets that will give you the voltage that you need.

An example would be – you need 24 volts but only have 6 V cells. Wire four of the cells in series to get 24 volts. (Wiring in series to increase the voltage).

Then wire each series set in parallel to each other (Positive to positive and negative to negative) until each cell is wired together in parallel. If each series set of cells equals 24 Volts at .5 Amps then four cells wired to each other in parallel would give you a 24 Volt @ 2.0 Amps.

Soldiering and Testing:

Note: that the solar cell is positive on one side and negative on the other. This is the reason behind the tabs running along the front of one cell then connect to the soldiering points on the back of the next cell.

It is advised that after your soldier each cell, you take it into the direct sunlight and test the voltage. The reason you want to do this, is so that as you continue to soldier your cells together, you can easily identify and broken cells in your series. If at some point you test the voltage of your cells and the voltage does not match the number of cells, then you will have a difficult time trying to figure out which cell in the series has a deficiency.

Building your Solar Panels:

Shadow Box:

The first thing your going to want to do is build your panel (shadow box). The size and shape all depends on your preference and what it will be used for.

For simplicity, we will assume you are building a panel for 36 – 3” x 6” cells. This is the number and size that most people tend to use.

We will also assume that the panel is being made for the purposes of being outside. Meaning it needs to be durable and survive changing weather conditions.

The two examples below demonstrate that there is a lot of flexibility in how you design your panel. Here we see that someone divided their panel into two parts, while someone else went with three sub panels.

How you chose to do this is completely up to you.

Note: If you decide to use a divider, you will need to drill holes in it to allow for wiring. This will keep most wiring inside the unit, and assist in weatherization.

You will want to drill at least one hole at the BOTTOM of your panel to allow for the equalization of air pressure. The inside of the panel will get hot and needs to be able to release the pressure through a controlled area. Placing it at the bottom will keep the rain out.

Note: You will want to keep the box design itself shallow. The purpose for this is to allow sunlight to hit all the panels. A deep box will cast a shadow on some of the panels, reducing efficiency.

Next, you will need to create a board to isolate the cells. At this stage most people do one of two things. You can use a pegboard or you can use a thin sheet of paneling and drill your own holes. The following photos will illustrate this.

The purpose for the pegboard or a similar material is so that when it is time to do repairs or maintenance, you can easily remove the cells.

(Above) This photo demonstrates what a homemade board looks like. Note that the board was also used for securing of their cells with double sided tape and running the tabs through the board holes.

(Above) This pegboard is store bought and has been cut into sections to accommodate subpaneling.

At this point, we will assume that your solar panel will be divided into to subpanels (two sections, as illustrated above).

When the shadow box and pegboard cutting are complete, the next thing you want to do is paint/waterproof all the wood materials. This can be done by using exterior paint or an aluminum epoxy called Aluthane.

After the paint is dried and you have ensured that the pegboard will fit neatly into your panel frame (shadow box), you will want to begin mounting your cells to the pegboard. This can be done a number of different ways. You can glue (silicone) or tape the cells to the board.

The order in which you do these next steps is not that important. The only important part is that it is completed and done right.

If you choose, you can take your cells and simply begin soldiering them together. Ensure that you are careful not to crack or break them, though; a broken cell will still work. Ensure that you soldier all the points correctly. Do these in SERIES.

(Below) Once you have completed all the soldiering, gluing/taping your subpanel should look something like this.

You are now at the point where everything needs to be wired together. For this portion we again recommend that you seek the assistance of a licensed electrician and refer to the wiring diagrams that you read earlier. The key thing to remember is to wire in series/parallel to get the maximum efficiency from your cells.

Note: when wiring, do not forget to connect your blocking diode. This will prevent electricity from back flowing into your cells and draining your batteries.

Once the wiring is completed and also the subpanels have been secured inside your shadow box, you will want to top it all off with glass or plexiglass. It is recommended that you use plexiglass. It has durability and is easy to work with.

Note: when securing your plexiglass to the top of your box, ensure you use silicone to waterproof it. Also, use screws that will allow you to remove the plexiglass and the subpanels for repair or maintenance.

Once you have completed everything, it is time for you to set up your new solar panels. At this point you will again want to have a licensed electrician assist you. This is in case there are any electrical modifications or issues.

Below is a photo of what a similar solar panel set up should look like.

(Above) A completed panel. Note the wiring running alone the right hand side of the panel and that the plexiglass and the subpanels are held together by screws and are removable.

Once your panel has been sealed, check all the corners and edges for any gaps or cracks. You will want to use silicone to close up anything you might have missed.

Note: Ensure that you do not seal your ventilation hole at the bottom of the panel.

The only thing that should be running from your panel at this point is the electrical cable you installed.

The electrical cable will then run to your charge controller, then to your batteries, and from there, to your inverter.

The type and size of the inverter your will use will be dictated by how many cells and how much power you will be generating. We have no way of know what your energy needs are, so we will leave this up to you to research.

Batteries:

Deep cycle batteries are your best option for storing and using the power you generate. These types of batteries are designed to be charged and to release the electricity over longer periods of time.

A good example of a deep cycle battery would be one that is used in a golf cart.

Car batteries are not recommended. These types of batteries are designed for quick bursts of electricity only.

Below is a quote from www.windsun.com:

Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates – not sponge. This gives less surface area, thus less “instant” power like starting batteries need.

Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The golf car battery is quite popular for small systems and RV’s. The problem is that “golf car” refers to a size of battery (commonly called GC-2, or T-105), not the type or construction – so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably – ranging from the cheap off brand with thin plates up the true deep cycle brands, such as Crown, Deka, Trojan, etc. In general, you get what you pay for.

As we have mentioned earlier, this guidebook is just that, it is a guide. Please use your own knowledge and research to assist and guide you in making your own solar panels. There are hundreds of websites and photos on the Internet to assist you in the building of your solar panels. This guidebook is only intended to be a tool in assisting you in that process.

Below, we have listed websites to help you get started in your research and path towards generating your own renewable energy.

Recommended Sites:

http://www.doe.gov

http://www.epa.gov

http://www.otherpower.com/

http://www.windsun.com/

http://www.mdpub.com/SolarPanel/index.html

http://www.solar4power.com/index.html

http://pyronet.50megs.com/RePower/Homemade%20Solar%20Panels.htm

http://science.howstuffworks.com/solar-cell.htm

http://www.12voltsolarpanels.net/deep-cycle-battery-solar-charging

http://www.missouriwindandsolar.com/Solar_Cells___Inverters.html

http://www.solar4power.com/solar-power-global-maps.html

http://www.partsonsale.com/products.html#anchor957558

Cost:

Depending on how much of the process you were able to do yourself, the solar panel, reasonably should only cost between $100.00 – $400.00

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